When a significant other goes out of town, most people use that opportunity to watch bad movies, to pig out on ice cream, and to spread out gratuitously in bed while sleeping. Me? I make risky foods. No, I don’t mean risky in a danger sense–I’m not eating supermarket ground beef tartar–I mean in a “will this be good?” sense. I take bigger chances when Craig’s not here because if I screw up, no one’s there to scrunch up their nose. So on Saturday morning, when I woke up and wanted breakfast, I opened南希·西尔弗顿(Nancy Silverton)的三明治书and studied the recipe for a sandwich that she says is Mari Batali’s favorite. It’s basically boiled eggs on arugula doused in Bagna Cauda. I didn’t have any bread and I didn’t have any arugula, but I did have the ingredients to make Bagna Cauda. And eggs. And, also–somewhat weirdly–farmer’s market Brussels Sprouts. An idea was born.
如果你读过my cookbook(and by now, you really should have…what’s your excuse?) you’ll recall that I first learned how to make Bagna Cauda from Gina DePalma, Babbo’s extraordinary pastry chef (observation: everyone with a Bagna Cauda recipe is somehow connected to Mario Batali). It’s such a simple concept, there’s really no excuse for you not to try it. You grind up anchovies (Nancy Silverton heartily endorses the salted kind, which I’m lucky enough to have; the flavor’s way more intense than anchovies packed in olive oil, though you do have to fillet them yourself which isn’t so hard once you get the hang of it (just cut a slit along the backbone, peel off the flesh and lift off the bones in one piece))….
…along with garlic in a mortar and pestle.
如果您没有迫击炮和杵,那没问题:吉娜教会了我如何在切菜板上磨碎大蒜并将其腌制成糊状物。只需撒上一点盐,剧烈切碎,然后用刀子涂抹,再次切碎,继续前进直到糊状。
之后,将混合物添加到用橄榄油和黄油的煎锅中:
您将煮熟并煮五分钟,直到凤尾鱼基本融化,大蒜将其所有味道都放在脂肪中。然后,这是我喜欢的南希·西尔弗顿(Nancy Silverton)步骤,您会加入柠檬皮,柠檬汁和盐。在加入柠檬汁和盐之前,我想:“嗯,这味道很好。”When I added lemon juice (a lot of it) and salt and tasted, I thought: “HOLY CRAP THAT IS THE BEST THING I HAVE EVER EXPERIENCED IN MY ENTIRE LIFE AND I’M COUNTING THE TIME I SANG ‘HEY JUDE’ AT A HIGH SCHOOL PEP RALLY IN FRONT OF 3,000 PEOPLE.”
That’s your Bagna Cauda. Most people consider it a dip. Pour it, hot, into a bowl and surround it with vegetables and you’ve got a great party dish. Gina recommends endive for this because you can scoop up a good amount in each bite; with carrots, etc., it slips off. Which is why I prefer to think of Bagna Cauda as a sauce: you can douse it, shamelessly, over anything you’re eating.
Which is why I took some Brussels sprouts I had from the farmer’s market, sliced them into shreds and fried them up in hot olive oil with a dash of salt, dousing everything in Bagna Cauda at the end:
I cooked eggs the Nancy Silverton way (the way she does for Mario’s sandwich), putting them cold into cold water, bringing it to a boil, lowering it to a simmer and cooking for 5 minutes, then shocking the eggs in ice water. You slice off the tops and scoop out the insides. I thought the yolks would be runny, but they were cooked. Still: a good method for bright yellow insides.
You can see the finished plate in the lead photo. Everything about that dish was amplified to 11 with the Bagna Cauda. I still get goosebumps when I think about it.
That was Bagna Cauda Adventure Day 1. On Bagna Cauda Adventure Day 2, I decided to make Mario Batali’s favorite sandwich.
There’s really not much to it. Slice a baguette. Add arugula (I had butter lettuce, so used that). Douse everything in Bagna Cauda. Then add scooped out eggs and douse with more Bagna Cauda.
难怪这是马里奥巴最喜欢的三明治: it’s basically garlic bread with way more flavor (see: anchovies! lemon zest! lemon juice!), tender eggs and crunchy lettuce. If the yolks had oozed, I would have been even happier, but maybe that’s not what Nancy’s going for with her cooking method.
没关系。Bagna Cauda是最好的,最酷的部分是,如果您剩下的Bagna Cauda,可以将其放入罐子里并冷藏过夜。第二天,您将有一块坚固的Bagna cauda黄油,您可能会在面包上作为调味黄油散布,或者只是添加到煎锅中并再次加热(就像我一样)。这些东西是液体(或固体,取决于其状态)的黄金。下次您的亲人出城时,请对口臭和美好时光,然后在Bagna Cauda昏迷的床上蔓延。那就是美好的生活。
食谱:南希·西尔弗顿(Nancy Silverton)的巴格纳·考达(Bagna Cauda)
Summary:A killer recipe from her famous sandwich book.
原料
- 2 to 3 fat garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped (about 1 tablespoon)
- 4个3英寸长的盐凤尾鱼,冲洗良好(很重要!),骨干切除,切碎(约1汤匙)
- 1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter [Note: for my purposes, I used half this amount…felt like too much for just me. But now I regret it because it would’ve made more.]
- 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil [I used 1/4 cup, same reasons]
- 1/2茶匙切碎的柠檬皮
- 3 to 4 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, or to tastes
- Kosher salt, to taste
指示
- 使用砂浆和杵将大蒜粉碎并锚定直至光滑的糊状。
- Transfer the paste to a small saucepan. Add the butter and olive oil and bring to a simmer over low heat. Continue simmering for about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the lemon zest and lemon juice. Taste and season with salt and more lemon juice until you’re like “holy crap, there’s nothing left to live for.”
Preparation time:10分钟)
烹饪时间:5 minute(s)
Number of servings (yield):6
My rating